Trains, Planes and Zebras

Spent a night in Nelson, NZ at a cute little hostel…wandered the city, jogged to the marina, imagining the Alvei (http://www.alvei.com/) and Darcie would be there but alas, they didn’t make it and met a fella who not only grew up in Asheville, went to med school at UNC-Chapel Hill but also did Peace Corps in Mongolia. What a small and beautiful world we live in!

Headed to London to meet up with Alex and later Rob (GAP volunteers on Paama with me last year) and my girls, Carly and Kate. A bit overwhelming with all the hustle and bustle of people, cars and choices…wow. So many ways to have coffee and a pastry! We explored the city…Big Ben and the Parliament, Hyde park, the London Bridge and the wonderful London underground…MIND THE GAP!

Carly returned to Sevilla to teach and Kate and I headed to Slovenia by train. Dravo Slovenia! We spent the night in a former prison converted to a hostel, rented a Smart Car and drove to Lake Bled and Bhinji then down to the coast town, Piran where we had an amazing meal of mussels. Our last evening before we board an overnight train to Milan, via Venice, we had to try out the much acclaimed Skeleton bar. Upon entering we were surprised at the brighter than what a crypt would be venue. There were indeed skeletons adorning the walls but the mood was far from eery or dark. Top 40’s and a little house music. Also 1 for 2 drinks.

Duomo in Milan

Enroute to Milan, Kate and I have a 10 hour layover in Venice, the city on water. We store our, what felt like 100 lb bags and set off to do Venice and we certainly did. The art museum, cathedral, pizza and panini in the sun on the plaza, people watching. We wander our way through the maze of cobblestone streets hugged by old, beautiful and weathered buildings with their rainbow of hanging flowers and waving laundry.

Arrived by train to Milan, Italy and stay at a B&B which is actually a three bedroom apartment of Giovanni, a Moby look alike and his dog Kika who he inherited after a guest left him as a puppy! We spent most of our time window shopping and seeing the sites. We were also on a mission to find a Milan bag and yes, did purchase one. More expensive than I would have ever spent but hey, it's Milan. (And I call myself a Peace Corps Vol, pfft)

Sevilla, Spain with Carly, where she is teaching...sunny days, quaint, cobblestone streets, delicious tapas and FLAMENCO! New friends, Jeremy, Julia and Maria.

Carly and I venture to Lisbon, Portugal and during our first few hours there, her purse is swiped...right from under our noses, at the tourist info center, just next door to the police station...what?! We spent the day at the police station (at least we didn't have to travel far) and the U.S. Embassy to get a temporary passport. Nightmare...We shrugged it off the best we could and spent a fun night in town...bar hopping and enjoying the beautiful lights.

Our last day there, we met some fellas in our hostel and again...this small world, I meet Travis. He pegs me immediately with my southern accent and "hey y'all"...come to find out he went to Chapel Hill too! A Tarheel bond :) Carly and I catch a ride with them to Sintra...it's raining but we make the best of it...Travis and I doing laps around the forest.

Our next stop...the land of windmills and wooden shoes, Sunny meets Carly and me in Amsterdam. The beautiful canal ways, friendly people, food and indulgences...don't miss out on eating a stroopwafel and oliebollen or fried dough ball...

And don't forget to check out the zebras, Van Gogh and especially the zoo on a Saturday night.

I then journeyed over the English Channel and spent a few girl bonding days with Daisy in Brighton, England...the last time we hung out was in Vanuatu and we relived some of those moments by making kava!

Then back to Spain to one of my new favorite places...Granada with Carly and Julie. The Sierra Nevada, the singing gypsies, the artists and Al Hambra. Amazing.

Next, Christmas in Morocco with Julie and Carly...Casablanca's beaches, hooka and salon day to Marrakesh's vibrant souks, colorful fabrics, leathers and metal, delicious mint teas and fragrant market foods.

What a whirlwind trip...a nice way to decompress after Peace Corps and reconnect with friends in Europe. Now it's back to NC...where it all started.

What's next Amy Chan?

Outbound from the South Pacific…emotionally drained after all the goodbyes. So hard to say farewell to my hut but it's been a month away from Vanautu and I'll be doing some traveling before I head back stateside. Some backpacking in Europe...England, Slovenia, Italy, Spain, Holland, Portugal and Morocco. Whew...a whirlwind. It’s hard to believe that 27 months have passed and my service has ended, although our service truly never ends as we continue to share our experiences with others.

It's been quite overwhelming...the traffic, news, entertainment, technology, choices and people! The anonymity has been great. Not to be stared at and to talk to everyone you meet. Although I was the only metalo (whiteman) on Paama, I feel more alone traveling sometimes, but it's ok really. People aren't as nice, friendly and smiling as they are in Vanuatu either. I do miss that. The hustle and bustle of big cities like London...wow. Slow down people. And I won't get into a rant about the frivolousness of our consumerism because I'm right into it too.

So, a big thanks to my parents for allowing me to travel instead of head straight home. My mom is meeting me in London early January and we will visit Ireland for a few days. Looking so forward to seeing her. Then back to NC January 11th. Can't wait to see my Dad, Cousins and get some of my Dad's delicious cooking!

Counting down my beloved NC friends! Chi-town peeps...hope to get up there in the Spring!

Sending lots of love and peace.

Merry Christmas and a Beautiful 2011!

No regrets?

Wow...what can I say? My two years of Peace Corps...living on a primitive island, being the only "white man"...has come to an end. Bittersweet is the best way to describe how I feel. It's been a roller coaster of experiences and emotions and I have little regrets. My only regret is that I've missed out on 2 years of my family and friends' lives back home.

And I know I've missed out on alot...case in point. When I was in Port Vila, I was chatting with Lauran Combs and because of the bad connection, I did not catch that she said she was expecting #2...so I find out on facebook and then ask her about it, thinking she hadn't told me...she now understands why I wasn't more excited on the phone.

Sure, I can see on facebook...new babies, kids growing up, vacations and new jobs but not to be able to reach out by phone instantly, to just chat about the day and to know what is really going on in your lives...I know I've missed out and it's hard. To think that I will return to the same people I love but to possibly changed friends. I know I've changed in many ways...time no doubt does that. I just hope that the changes don't create a bigger gap than the distance had.

But what's to come, the future...settling down in N.C...cook outs, dinner parties, getting to know my friends' kids...so much to look forward to. And with this experience, all that I've learned about myself...I am forever grateful for the amazing support and encouragement I've had from my family and friends over these past years. Even though I was far away from home, my foundation, the people I love and who know me were never far away from my heart and mind.

My last village days...on Epi

I wasn't ready to say farewell to village life, lap lap and island dresses, even though I am officially an RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer)! I went to visit Lauren, Amy, Kathy and Dan on Epi.

Lauren and her family

I fell in love with her Avu woman

4 stages of PCVs (newbie Kathy; half way, Amy O; RPCV, Amy C; and 3rd year senior, Lauren)

Our 6 mile hike

Lauren and our foul

Went spent our last night sleeping in a treehouse on the beach...here's our view. Hemia nao.

My last weeks on Paama

My namesake...Emima / Emi

Cleaning our reef...removing 600+ crown of thorns!

Ordaining a church elder

Mama's tea

SDA last kakae (meal)

Last kava with the papas

RTC graduation

Saying goodbye to my family at the airport

Extremes

This Peace Corps journey has been a rollercoaster ride of emotions and experiences. I often tell people who ask about my time here that the highs are really high and the lows and super low…which is what I think can make this experience so difficult but yet so rewarding. In my life back stateside there was less extremes for me. Days and weeks were generally similar or did not range much. You always have your good and bad days.

For me here, I’ve been over the moon after completing a youth camp or workshop but then have been depressed and sad because I just wanted to see my family or hug my friend who just found out she’s pregnant. One day I’ll feel so much love and appreciation when I storian with my village people. And then some days the boredom, solitude, bugs and heat drive me mad.

Then there are the two extremes of lifestyles I’ve experienced…from this primitive and simple life on Paama without electricity and cooking over fire to the expat life in Port Vila. Dating Ivan (Mr. Nambawan) has been a fun and beautiful time from the Kiwanis black tie ball and races to amazing days on Kakula island. Meeting wonderful friends, Fabi and Andy, Morgane and Kristel, Olivia, Patience and many more I should mention…good times wining and dining. Think gourmet dinners, boat rides and champagne.

From miserable, suffocating heat to refreshing, cool rain…the annoying mosquitos and the adorable chicks…from missing loved ones to receiving packages and letters… love, heartache and saying goodbye. It’s all about experiencing life and every emotion it has to offer. You have to see the dark in order to see and appreciate the beautiful light.

Love and Loath Paama

Things I love and will miss about Paama

Dinner with my family, no T.V. just storian
The Mamas’ laughs
The amazing tropical jungle and the hiking
The carefree naked kids playing with bush knives and fire
Canoe rides with my Papa Isaiah
Cooking over fire
The smiling faces
The peace and quiet
Not wearing a watch
Star gazing while I brush my teeth every night
The cool breeze when it’s scorching hot
Going to the gardens and then eating what you’ve grown
In bed by 9p
Being awoken not by an alarm but by the roosters crowing and birds singing
Naps
Sunsets

Snorkeling in the crystal clear ocean
KAVA!
Storian
Community gatherings, kakaes

My weekly hike to Liro to go to the bank, post office and to watch soccer
The Mamas’ market
Church and singing
Picnic lunch with the SDA church under the mango tree every Sabbath
Fresh, organic foods…pomplemousse, pineapple, mangoes, avocado, namambei nut
Making laplap with my mama Eva

Eating laplap and simboro, especially manioc
Fresh caught fish
Drinking coconuts
Using a bush knife (machete)
Leaf arnis tea
Hearing custom stories and black magic
Storian with the old fala

Yoga and runs on the beach in the morning
Time to read, write and sew
The crickets that lull me to sleep every night
Hearing the approaching wind and rain through the Paama hills
The rain falling on the natagora leaf roof of my hut
The sound of the waves crashing nearby
Seeing dolphins, dougongs and turtles swimming
Evenings in my hut by candlelight
Rock hopping the coast of Paama
Writing and receiving snail mail
Being so low maintenance, having little care for my appearance and not looking in a mirror for days
The hens pecking around with their chicks
My Paama family

Things I won’t miss much

Missing my family and friends
Incessant mosquitos
Ants
Rats
bucket showers although I got used to it
hauling water up to my house when the water is cut off
The HEAT and humidity
Washing clothes by hand although I didn’t mind it that much
The sometimes slow pace
The solitude, loneliness and boredom
The staring and gawking
Feeling left out when they speak Paama language