Trains, Planes and Zebras

Spent a night in Nelson, NZ at a cute little hostel…wandered the city, jogged to the marina, imagining the Alvei (http://www.alvei.com/) and Darcie would be there but alas, they didn’t make it and met a fella who not only grew up in Asheville, went to med school at UNC-Chapel Hill but also did Peace Corps in Mongolia. What a small and beautiful world we live in!

Headed to London to meet up with Alex and later Rob (GAP volunteers on Paama with me last year) and my girls, Carly and Kate. A bit overwhelming with all the hustle and bustle of people, cars and choices…wow. So many ways to have coffee and a pastry! We explored the city…Big Ben and the Parliament, Hyde park, the London Bridge and the wonderful London underground…MIND THE GAP!

Carly returned to Sevilla to teach and Kate and I headed to Slovenia by train. Dravo Slovenia! We spent the night in a former prison converted to a hostel, rented a Smart Car and drove to Lake Bled and Bhinji then down to the coast town, Piran where we had an amazing meal of mussels. Our last evening before we board an overnight train to Milan, via Venice, we had to try out the much acclaimed Skeleton bar. Upon entering we were surprised at the brighter than what a crypt would be venue. There were indeed skeletons adorning the walls but the mood was far from eery or dark. Top 40’s and a little house music. Also 1 for 2 drinks.

Duomo in Milan

Enroute to Milan, Kate and I have a 10 hour layover in Venice, the city on water. We store our, what felt like 100 lb bags and set off to do Venice and we certainly did. The art museum, cathedral, pizza and panini in the sun on the plaza, people watching. We wander our way through the maze of cobblestone streets hugged by old, beautiful and weathered buildings with their rainbow of hanging flowers and waving laundry.

Arrived by train to Milan, Italy and stay at a B&B which is actually a three bedroom apartment of Giovanni, a Moby look alike and his dog Kika who he inherited after a guest left him as a puppy! We spent most of our time window shopping and seeing the sites. We were also on a mission to find a Milan bag and yes, did purchase one. More expensive than I would have ever spent but hey, it's Milan. (And I call myself a Peace Corps Vol, pfft)

Sevilla, Spain with Carly, where she is teaching...sunny days, quaint, cobblestone streets, delicious tapas and FLAMENCO! New friends, Jeremy, Julia and Maria.

Carly and I venture to Lisbon, Portugal and during our first few hours there, her purse is swiped...right from under our noses, at the tourist info center, just next door to the police station...what?! We spent the day at the police station (at least we didn't have to travel far) and the U.S. Embassy to get a temporary passport. Nightmare...We shrugged it off the best we could and spent a fun night in town...bar hopping and enjoying the beautiful lights.

Our last day there, we met some fellas in our hostel and again...this small world, I meet Travis. He pegs me immediately with my southern accent and "hey y'all"...come to find out he went to Chapel Hill too! A Tarheel bond :) Carly and I catch a ride with them to Sintra...it's raining but we make the best of it...Travis and I doing laps around the forest.

Our next stop...the land of windmills and wooden shoes, Sunny meets Carly and me in Amsterdam. The beautiful canal ways, friendly people, food and indulgences...don't miss out on eating a stroopwafel and oliebollen or fried dough ball...

And don't forget to check out the zebras, Van Gogh and especially the zoo on a Saturday night.

I then journeyed over the English Channel and spent a few girl bonding days with Daisy in Brighton, England...the last time we hung out was in Vanuatu and we relived some of those moments by making kava!

Then back to Spain to one of my new favorite places...Granada with Carly and Julie. The Sierra Nevada, the singing gypsies, the artists and Al Hambra. Amazing.

Next, Christmas in Morocco with Julie and Carly...Casablanca's beaches, hooka and salon day to Marrakesh's vibrant souks, colorful fabrics, leathers and metal, delicious mint teas and fragrant market foods.

What a whirlwind trip...a nice way to decompress after Peace Corps and reconnect with friends in Europe. Now it's back to NC...where it all started.

What's next Amy Chan?

Outbound from the South Pacific…emotionally drained after all the goodbyes. So hard to say farewell to my hut but it's been a month away from Vanautu and I'll be doing some traveling before I head back stateside. Some backpacking in Europe...England, Slovenia, Italy, Spain, Holland, Portugal and Morocco. Whew...a whirlwind. It’s hard to believe that 27 months have passed and my service has ended, although our service truly never ends as we continue to share our experiences with others.

It's been quite overwhelming...the traffic, news, entertainment, technology, choices and people! The anonymity has been great. Not to be stared at and to talk to everyone you meet. Although I was the only metalo (whiteman) on Paama, I feel more alone traveling sometimes, but it's ok really. People aren't as nice, friendly and smiling as they are in Vanuatu either. I do miss that. The hustle and bustle of big cities like London...wow. Slow down people. And I won't get into a rant about the frivolousness of our consumerism because I'm right into it too.

So, a big thanks to my parents for allowing me to travel instead of head straight home. My mom is meeting me in London early January and we will visit Ireland for a few days. Looking so forward to seeing her. Then back to NC January 11th. Can't wait to see my Dad, Cousins and get some of my Dad's delicious cooking!

Counting down my beloved NC friends! Chi-town peeps...hope to get up there in the Spring!

Sending lots of love and peace.

Merry Christmas and a Beautiful 2011!

No regrets?

Wow...what can I say? My two years of Peace Corps...living on a primitive island, being the only "white man"...has come to an end. Bittersweet is the best way to describe how I feel. It's been a roller coaster of experiences and emotions and I have little regrets. My only regret is that I've missed out on 2 years of my family and friends' lives back home.

And I know I've missed out on alot...case in point. When I was in Port Vila, I was chatting with Lauran Combs and because of the bad connection, I did not catch that she said she was expecting #2...so I find out on facebook and then ask her about it, thinking she hadn't told me...she now understands why I wasn't more excited on the phone.

Sure, I can see on facebook...new babies, kids growing up, vacations and new jobs but not to be able to reach out by phone instantly, to just chat about the day and to know what is really going on in your lives...I know I've missed out and it's hard. To think that I will return to the same people I love but to possibly changed friends. I know I've changed in many ways...time no doubt does that. I just hope that the changes don't create a bigger gap than the distance had.

But what's to come, the future...settling down in N.C...cook outs, dinner parties, getting to know my friends' kids...so much to look forward to. And with this experience, all that I've learned about myself...I am forever grateful for the amazing support and encouragement I've had from my family and friends over these past years. Even though I was far away from home, my foundation, the people I love and who know me were never far away from my heart and mind.

My last village days...on Epi

I wasn't ready to say farewell to village life, lap lap and island dresses, even though I am officially an RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer)! I went to visit Lauren, Amy, Kathy and Dan on Epi.

Lauren and her family

I fell in love with her Avu woman

4 stages of PCVs (newbie Kathy; half way, Amy O; RPCV, Amy C; and 3rd year senior, Lauren)

Our 6 mile hike

Lauren and our foul

Went spent our last night sleeping in a treehouse on the beach...here's our view. Hemia nao.

My last weeks on Paama

My namesake...Emima / Emi

Cleaning our reef...removing 600+ crown of thorns!

Ordaining a church elder

Mama's tea

SDA last kakae (meal)

Last kava with the papas

RTC graduation

Saying goodbye to my family at the airport

Extremes

This Peace Corps journey has been a rollercoaster ride of emotions and experiences. I often tell people who ask about my time here that the highs are really high and the lows and super low…which is what I think can make this experience so difficult but yet so rewarding. In my life back stateside there was less extremes for me. Days and weeks were generally similar or did not range much. You always have your good and bad days.

For me here, I’ve been over the moon after completing a youth camp or workshop but then have been depressed and sad because I just wanted to see my family or hug my friend who just found out she’s pregnant. One day I’ll feel so much love and appreciation when I storian with my village people. And then some days the boredom, solitude, bugs and heat drive me mad.

Then there are the two extremes of lifestyles I’ve experienced…from this primitive and simple life on Paama without electricity and cooking over fire to the expat life in Port Vila. Dating Ivan (Mr. Nambawan) has been a fun and beautiful time from the Kiwanis black tie ball and races to amazing days on Kakula island. Meeting wonderful friends, Fabi and Andy, Morgane and Kristel, Olivia, Patience and many more I should mention…good times wining and dining. Think gourmet dinners, boat rides and champagne.

From miserable, suffocating heat to refreshing, cool rain…the annoying mosquitos and the adorable chicks…from missing loved ones to receiving packages and letters… love, heartache and saying goodbye. It’s all about experiencing life and every emotion it has to offer. You have to see the dark in order to see and appreciate the beautiful light.

Love and Loath Paama

Things I love and will miss about Paama

Dinner with my family, no T.V. just storian
The Mamas’ laughs
The amazing tropical jungle and the hiking
The carefree naked kids playing with bush knives and fire
Canoe rides with my Papa Isaiah
Cooking over fire
The smiling faces
The peace and quiet
Not wearing a watch
Star gazing while I brush my teeth every night
The cool breeze when it’s scorching hot
Going to the gardens and then eating what you’ve grown
In bed by 9p
Being awoken not by an alarm but by the roosters crowing and birds singing
Naps
Sunsets

Snorkeling in the crystal clear ocean
KAVA!
Storian
Community gatherings, kakaes

My weekly hike to Liro to go to the bank, post office and to watch soccer
The Mamas’ market
Church and singing
Picnic lunch with the SDA church under the mango tree every Sabbath
Fresh, organic foods…pomplemousse, pineapple, mangoes, avocado, namambei nut
Making laplap with my mama Eva

Eating laplap and simboro, especially manioc
Fresh caught fish
Drinking coconuts
Using a bush knife (machete)
Leaf arnis tea
Hearing custom stories and black magic
Storian with the old fala

Yoga and runs on the beach in the morning
Time to read, write and sew
The crickets that lull me to sleep every night
Hearing the approaching wind and rain through the Paama hills
The rain falling on the natagora leaf roof of my hut
The sound of the waves crashing nearby
Seeing dolphins, dougongs and turtles swimming
Evenings in my hut by candlelight
Rock hopping the coast of Paama
Writing and receiving snail mail
Being so low maintenance, having little care for my appearance and not looking in a mirror for days
The hens pecking around with their chicks
My Paama family

Things I won’t miss much

Missing my family and friends
Incessant mosquitos
Ants
Rats
bucket showers although I got used to it
hauling water up to my house when the water is cut off
The HEAT and humidity
Washing clothes by hand although I didn’t mind it that much
The sometimes slow pace
The solitude, loneliness and boredom
The staring and gawking
Feeling left out when they speak Paama language

Seeing Paama through new eyes

I love when there are visitors on Paama. It’s like seeing Paama for the first time again through newborn eyes. The little things that I take for granted having lived here for 2 years…the carefree nature of the kids who play with fire and knives, smiling faces and welcoming handshakes, the cute chicks and their mother hens pecking around (although they can annoy me sometimes), the lush green of the Paama hills, the cool breeze on the beach and those magnificent sunsets.

Connie, a German native who lives in Australia with her husband and sons, came to Paama to visit with people who are handicapped or disabled. Oftentimes, they hide these individuals from shame or lack of knowing what they can or should do. Connie revealed a statistic that 10% of a population is handicapped or disabled. Which makes about 150 on Paama with a population of about 1500...which seems high but can't be denied since so many are hidden away. She discovered several during her week stay here, many of them coming to light gradually throughout the week but it took some digging.

I spent Sunday with her…which was also Father’s Day in my village so the nakamal was bustling with preparations. Bread and tea for breakfast followed by rice, chicken, fish and laplap for lunch. I accompanied her to visit a 7-month old girl, Karina whose mother, Marie is hearing disabled and Karina born with club feet and abnormal hand. She had been operated on but Connie found that her knees may impede her walking. She showed Mama Marie exercises to do with Karina to make her strong.

We then visited Catherine age 28 with Downs Syndrome who has had a good life, involved daily with housework, cleaning, washing and sewing. Her family has been a good support for her, although some days she spends sitting under the mango tree from sun up to sun down.

Our last stop was a visit with Morris, a 9 month old who my Papa Isaiah has been treating with custom leaf. At 5 months, the parents say Morris was cursed with black magic…Connie found the top of his skull was not fully closed which meant that he may not have a fully developed brain. This was evident by its unsettled crying and even more so by his non-focusing eyes and non-reaction to the banging of a plate. Morris was blind and deaf. It was heartbreaking to see but the Mama was always smiling, cuddling with Morris and showing him love. His Papa too, although he sat aside with a look of worry and concern. His motor skills were of a newborn, not a 9 month old. Connie patiently sat while his Mama nursed him…a reason why he was fatfat and often what she did to quiet him. Connie gave some exercises for them to do with him and encouraged them

This time with Connie showed me another facet of this place which has made me wish I had more time. Awareness and talking about it to people with the short time I have left , I hope will at least help to get it out in the open instead of keeping it hidden. There's always more we can do.

Like sands through the hourglass…these are the Days on our Island

This slow and primitive island life has its own drama and soap opera sagas and here are a few of the story lines...

Ana has two daughters, Esta the eldest and Serah. Esta has two children whose husband lives in Vila as a result of Esta’s mother Ana having had an affair with Esta’s husband… or in other words, he was seduced by his mother-in-law. This happened last season and now this season’s story gets juicier. Esta begins seeing Ison (who is also my RTC manager’s brother) and he gets her pregnant. Esta’s parents refuse to let them be together since Esta already has kids and instead encourages Serah, her younger sister who is also an RTC student to get with Ison. So, Serah seduces her sister’s boyfriend, Ison and she is upset that Esta is pregnant with her boyfriend’s baby. Now she is telling everyone that she too is pregnant with his baby. Whoa.

Next…a particular church group who are thought of as more morally "good"on Paama are not without their drama. Roslyn is married to Brown with twin girls and a boy. Nelly and Massing are married with two boys. Brown was caught creeping and spying on Nelly and even calling the public phone near her house just to hear her voice.

A few villages over, teenager David has a crush on a sweet girl Doku who suddenly faints after being shined on with a flashlight and put in a trance. He learned from his adopted grandfather Silas (who also is the fastest kava chugger) how to cast a spell (black magic) on someone that makes her fall in love with you. Doku falls ill and is taken to the clinic where her mother arrives by plane from Vila to exercise out the spell and demon.

RTC manager Sandy is so overloaded with work for school and family. Not only does he manage and teach at the RTC but his wife, Helen does not go to the garden, does not cook, clean or wash clothes. She’s known to just toss dirty clothes on the lawn and leave them. Poor Sandy is left to take care of everything for his wife and two boys (with another on the way).

Mi winim!

I’m proud to say that I’ve now visited every village on Paama! Yay me. That’s about 25 villages which doesn’t seem like many to get to in two years, but let me tell you how difficult it can be. There are even many people here who have spent their entire lives on Paama and have never been to all the villages.

Not surprisingly when I began my first attempt to Luli my first month at site December of 2008, I had not yet experienced the hills of Paama. Most villages lie in the valleys snug between the mountainous terrain. My 30 minute weekly hike to Liro consists of about 4 climbs but each followed by a nice, flat stroll.

On the other hand to get to the 2 villages on the east side, Luli and Lulep, it’s straight up and down hills, with no steps built in, just dirt paths among tropical foliage and coconut plantations. The nature and views are amazing, that is when I’m not out of breath after a treacherous trek.

So my first attempt in 2008 to Luli was planned for a marriage of a cousin brother, Morris. My Mama Eva tells me during dinner that she’ll come wake me around 4 a.m. the next morning to start the hike. Thinking that this was “island time”, I anticipated she meant 5 or 6 a.m. but she knocks on my door even earlier, around 3:30 a.m. While still groggy from sleep, I hurriedly dressed with no chance for a coffee or breakfast and we were off while the sun had not yet peaked through the hills.

The first climb started through the coconut plantation…a very large and steep coconut plantation. I was huffing and puffing after 30 minutes into the climb and had to rest. I was determined to not holdback my family although my sisters went ahead and my Mama Eva shared my pace. We began the steep hike again and then a steep descent and after 10 minutes my legs were shaking. I was shocked. I’m in relatively good shape and enjoy hiking but the hills of Paama won.

I didn’t want to hold up my Mama so she asked if I wanted to hang back because the climb would continue this way for another hour and a half. If we could have rested more maybe, I would have made it but at our pace, there was no way.

I felt defeated and the people in my village didn’t let me hear the end of it asking, “Luli i winim yu?” followed my laughter. So yeah, it’s been 20 months since my first attempt and I made it. However, not without some struggle but the amazing views and victory of “winning Luli” made it worth it.

that's me winning Luli...the view of Lopevi volcano

Who needs a butcher?

The day was cool and sunny for my sister, Lenneth’s, custom ceremony for her upcoming marriage. The youngfellas of my village lead our family’s 2 female cows down close to the shore. My papa asked me to take some photos of him with his cows, which he raised and cared for 5+ years. He didn’t want to be present for their slaughter.

Ison, my RTC manager’s brother and another youth from my village held up the rifle as many of us clasped our ears in anticipation of the screaming bullet that was aimed for the cow’s head. Traditionally, the cow is struck on the head with an ax but luckily, my papa has a rifle, although the bullets are small ones. It did the job though…one shot in the forehead and the cow was put down. Its neck was then cut to make sure and several of the guys began chopping away with an axe and knives. They dissected it open, removing the insides as blood trickled out of a vein in the neck. Surprisingly, there was less blood than I would have thought. One of the cows, sadly, was pregnant with a tiny fetus that could fit a palm.

Most every part of the cow will be cooked and eaten. They cut the cow up into four pieces and hauled each large, heavy piece to the nakamal to skin and slice into smaller pieces, some of which to be cooked and the rest to be given to each family who attends the celebration.

Since being here, I guess it can be said that I’ve been somewhat desensitized to the killing of animals although I cannot manage to kill anything but mosquitoes and ants which I must massacre on a weekly basis with a poisonous spray. I did think about killing a chicken once…stared right in its eyes as my host mama Eva is holding it, explaining that I take the quill of the feather and stick it in its ear in order to puncture the brain which kills it instantly. This isn’t something I haven’t seen before even when I was younger on trips to China where they will chop the heads off. Nothing I can’t handle, but I just could not bring myself to do it. I really wanted to…where and when will I ever have the chance to kill a chicken? Many of us, minus the vegetarians, eat chicken almost daily but purchase it packaged, pink and slimy, ready for a frying pan, grill or oven. So, as you gasp, remember it had to be killed too.

Brianna Russell, my Paama partner had the courage to choke a chicken. Really, she choked it to death. There’s even footage on facebook if you want to see it! And not only that, she killed a pig (small chief Brianna:) Needless to say, I couldn’t do either but I do have a few more months here so maybe I’ll get the guts to do it. (no pun intended)

A challenge and a blessing

The Rural Training Center(RTC) on Paama now has 10 students attending, of which five will graduate this November. We’ve lost a couple teachers, attendance is not always good and the RTC will not be getting a replacement Peace Corps Volunteer…these issues have been disheartening. There are RTCs on other islands that have 30 students and some who are struggling to keep a few so we are right in the middle…at least we are running. Without permanent teachers, Sandy, the manager and I have created a school plan to bring in men and women around Paama who have certain skills, knowledge or experiences to do workshops.

I’ve recently started the computer class, did a First Aid workshop and made collages. A papa who worked in the vineyards in New Zealand will come present about his experience and some mamas will be showing the students how to sew shirts, hanging clothes baskets and how to make different island food. The bank manager will also be coming to talk about savings plans and why one should save money in the bank instead of burying it in the ground which is what many do.

It has been a challenge here to encourage enrollment and attendance, partly because the people of Paama do not struggle for food or shelter. These basic necessities are easily met by going to the garden, fishing and working with the community to build a house. For us, we must go to school or learn a trade in order to find a job, earn money to buy food and pay rent or a mortgage. There’s less need here for money so in turn the challenge of promoting the importance of attending school can be difficult.

It’s a blessing that they can survive from the land, ocean and man power. The materialism that our society is so addicted to is still not as prevalent although mobile phones have just been introduced during my time here on Paama so another expense now added. And there’s often someone asking if I can get them a DVD player or digital camera so it’s happening here too…

While the advancements in communication and living is improving the lives of the people here, there's also the downside that the more we have, the more we want. So, the inevitable is gonna happen with more households getting electricity and thus more getting T.V.s and DVD players. I just hope this untouched paradise takes its time getting there.