Mi winim!

I’m proud to say that I’ve now visited every village on Paama! Yay me. That’s about 25 villages which doesn’t seem like many to get to in two years, but let me tell you how difficult it can be. There are even many people here who have spent their entire lives on Paama and have never been to all the villages.

Not surprisingly when I began my first attempt to Luli my first month at site December of 2008, I had not yet experienced the hills of Paama. Most villages lie in the valleys snug between the mountainous terrain. My 30 minute weekly hike to Liro consists of about 4 climbs but each followed by a nice, flat stroll.

On the other hand to get to the 2 villages on the east side, Luli and Lulep, it’s straight up and down hills, with no steps built in, just dirt paths among tropical foliage and coconut plantations. The nature and views are amazing, that is when I’m not out of breath after a treacherous trek.

So my first attempt in 2008 to Luli was planned for a marriage of a cousin brother, Morris. My Mama Eva tells me during dinner that she’ll come wake me around 4 a.m. the next morning to start the hike. Thinking that this was “island time”, I anticipated she meant 5 or 6 a.m. but she knocks on my door even earlier, around 3:30 a.m. While still groggy from sleep, I hurriedly dressed with no chance for a coffee or breakfast and we were off while the sun had not yet peaked through the hills.

The first climb started through the coconut plantation…a very large and steep coconut plantation. I was huffing and puffing after 30 minutes into the climb and had to rest. I was determined to not holdback my family although my sisters went ahead and my Mama Eva shared my pace. We began the steep hike again and then a steep descent and after 10 minutes my legs were shaking. I was shocked. I’m in relatively good shape and enjoy hiking but the hills of Paama won.

I didn’t want to hold up my Mama so she asked if I wanted to hang back because the climb would continue this way for another hour and a half. If we could have rested more maybe, I would have made it but at our pace, there was no way.

I felt defeated and the people in my village didn’t let me hear the end of it asking, “Luli i winim yu?” followed my laughter. So yeah, it’s been 20 months since my first attempt and I made it. However, not without some struggle but the amazing views and victory of “winning Luli” made it worth it.

that's me winning Luli...the view of Lopevi volcano