Paama...home sweaty home

First a little about Paama...

It is a small mountainous island of only 32 sq km. It's of volcanic origin as is most of the South Pacific with five mountains that run the length of Paama. 21 villages comprise Paama and Tahi, the village in which I will be living is on the side of a cliff with a small view of the Pacific Ocean and black sand beach with about 100 inhabitants. Economic activities include farming (yam, island cabbage, manioc, taro and banana), bread bakers, kava and fishing.

There are no motor vehicles…only walking on Paama which is great…less pollution! There are no cell phones yet but there is talk of a provider coming soon to Paama. I will have a land line close to my work/home and possibly a satellite phone so I can make/get calls! Yay. Mom, start researching phone cards to call Tahi, Paama.


Liro is the closest "big village" in which there is a mama's market and some small stores though only open on Tuesdays and Fridays. Julie, another PCV is currently living there now but she is leaving as soon as I get there :( There is one Registered Nurse and one policeman in Liro.

My counterpart is Edward Harris, the Rural Training Center (RTC) manager. The training center has two classrooms and has courses in carpentry, mechanics, home care, business studies and English. I will be assisting Edward to evaluate, implement and monitor the business practices of the programs as well as with grant writing/sourcing funds, teacher efficiency, team teaching and marketing classes to other villages. There is a list of 14 duties but I won't bore you with them now…

Took a small 8 seater puddle jumper airplane to Paama. The pubescent Australian pilot even read the paper while the plane was on autopilot! Pics to come to prove it. The 45 minute flight is inspiring with views of Lepevi volcano, expansive reefs and bushy stalks of broccoli top islands. We landed on a short grass runway...man it was crazy but safe. When I arrived to Paama, there was a short walk on the black sand beach with warm grey and burgundy lava rocks and cow chomping nearby. We boarded a boat which took us to Tahi, my village...about a 15 min boat ride away. My counterpart Edward Harris greeted us and we were welcomed at my host family's house.

My host papa Asyiah is a fisherman (we ate fresh fish daily), involved with local politics and knows custom medicine...usually this involves using a special local leaf (not what you think... more details to come). They talk Bislama only so I get about 70% of the conversation at this point. He loves to storian (story-on i.e. chat) and he had much to share. Eva is host mama, generous and sweet then daughter, Lisa (age 4), a couple cousin brothers and cousin sisters. Leweia (age 28) will definitely be my tawi (ie buddy) and we laugh and poke fun of each other. There's 2 little bros (age 7 and 11). I also have another cousin sister Carlene (age 17) who just helps Leweia in the garden.

Carlene and I took a walk inland toward a few other villages and we walked no more than about 40 minutes and she turns to tell me that this was her first time ever in that village! I about fell out. After traveling thousands of miles, taking a 12+ hours flight...she had never been to this nearby village just a quarter of a mile away. wow.

We then headed to the shore and climbed boulders along the ocean to reach her family's village. All of these villages were quiet and most people were up in their gardens. Houses range from some cement/cinder semi-modern houses to custom houses similar to where I live in my training village. There are separate enclosed structures which are kitchens marked by dark and sooty walls from the open fires for cooking. They also use earth ovens where hot lava rocks (similar to charcoal) are placed in a wide hole in the ground, then food that is being cooked (usually lap lap or meat) is laid over the rocks and then rocks over the food. A sink is made up of two xlarge wide bowls that are filled and dumped each time...one for washing and the other for rinsing. Most villages either have a rain tank where water is collected and stored or water from a spring. I have a spigot with drinkable spring water luckily.

So my host family fed me well...fresh cucumbers, the sweetest pineapple I've ever tasted, cabbage salad, lap lap (more on that later), catch of the day fish, chicken and rice. They were wonderful and will be my saving grace...

My first Peace Corps breakdown happened during this visit...mosquitos were relentless that day, the heat was sweltering, I was dirty, amongst new people speaking another language (they have their own dialect, Paamese), a few issues with my house and just overwelmed. While I was melting and scratching away, I called my mom and dad to check in. My dad tells me that he hopes I am not suffering and that I can come home if I wanted. This was the first point that I considered it. Tried April to wish her a happy birthday but didn't catch her. Called Hagan's house and just broke down...she eased my insecurities but this was my first test, my first bump in the road and I am still here...it just jarred my sanity and I know that it will not be the last.

On a happier note, when I flew back to Port Vila, I got to stay the night and go out with some current volunteers. Some of who are COSing (close of service) and returning home...to talk to them is to envy them. Not just because they are going home but because they made it. All 27 months. We had kava, went to a nice waterfront bar, talked and danced the night away. Late night food too. Bedtime at 230a. This has been the latest I've been out my entire time here! Shut eye is usually by 930.

Today we went to Le Lagun, a resort hotel with several overlapping pools, view of the lagoon, drinks, food, ICE and hot shower. Not but 12 hours ago, I was sitting with my host papa and counterpart having a shell of kava listening to a static radio, staring up at the southern stars and realizing a clossal event was happening on the other side of the world. Obama is president. It was a surreal moment.

So, I jammed alot in here...thanks for reading. It's therapeutic to get it out. A few other volunteers just got back and we are sharing stories in the PC office...not wanting to go back to our training village. (driver Matthew is asleep)

Thanks for those who hollared on facebook...the support is keeping me on track. I will have some time in the city in a week on Saturday then swearing in on Thanksgiving. After that we have a few days in the city to prepare for our departure to our sites early Dec where we will be until March when we have Early Service Conference (ESC).

Missing home...